Repair Tips

Typical Battery Repairs for the 24 Volt Lawn N-1 and Lawn N-2

If at some point your mower battery fails, there are a few things you can do to fix the problem. The easiest (if necessary) will be to replace the fuse on the inside. More involved will be to replace the internal cells. We cover both procedures here.  Neither process is very difficult but it takes some patience, so hang in there.  

If you need a new fuse, call or email The Greenstation and we can provide one. For the new 12 volt cells, we no longer provide them so we recommend the companies with the links provided above. A note on the post configuration on the tops of the cells (see Figures 1 and 2) – the original cells have threaded posts going into the cell casing. The new cells will have posts sticking out of the battery with a hole for the included nut and bolt configuration. It’s also important to note the post measurements on the cell so that the existing wire lengths do not have to be replaced. Also note that this is a 24 volt mower driven by a 24 volt battery made up of (2) 12 volt cells.  

We understand that some of our customers are battery savvy but we tried to write this for anyone who is new to this.

This looks like a lot of work but it’s really only a lot of words.

Figure 1

Figure 2


1. Lay out a towel on a hard sturdy surface.  Fold the towel so you can place the battery on it and spin the battery on the towel as needed to remove the screws in the plastic case.

2. Place the battery on the towel smooth side down with the 4 little “feet” in the air.

3. Begin anywhere with a phillips screwdriver and remove the black screws all the way around the edge of the case.  There are a total of 17 screws.  It is helpful to have the towel also in case a screw gets away, it will land on the towel and not bounce onto the floor.  Save all the screws in a cup.

4. Carefully turn the battery upside down so that it sits on the four “feet”.  Remove the smooth plastic part of the shell to reveal the (2) 12 volt cells and the wiring (See Figure 3).  Be careful.  It’s heavy.

Figure 3


5. At first look, this may be intimidating but it’s laid out very logically so don’t fret.  There are (2) screw terminals on each battery (4 total) and a fuse over to the right where the wires connect to the charging ports.

6. Lift out the fuse being careful not to let any metal part of the fuse connection to touch the screw terminal on the cell (See Figure 4).  There may be a piece of sticky black rubber covering that screw.  Save it.  Inspect the fuse to see if it is blown.  If so, replace it and go to step 14.  If the fuse is good then pull the wires off the fuse and set the fuse aside with the screws.

Figure 4


7. Begin with a phillips screwdriver and remove the (2) outside screws.  Far left and far right (See Figure 5). They only secure one long red wire.  Save the screws and the wire to the side. (That was easy).

Figure 5


8. Now the two inner screws look daunting but they are not.  Just remove them.  One screw secures ALL the other red wires and the other screw secures ALL the other black wires.  The cells have a little color patch on them (red and black).  You can do it.  There are (3) of each color.

9. Now, if you can lift out the (2) cells with your fingers – go ahead and do that.  If they are too tight or too heavy, carefully turn the battery upside down again and try to lift the plastic shell off the cells.  There are some holes in the shell if you need to press the cells out with a screwdriver as you lift the plastic.  NOTE: sometimes, the factory gets a little sloppy with the silicone on the light board (Figure 6 is the assembly where the yellow button and the RYG lights are).  If there is rubber glue that has spilled to the top of the battery you have to try to cut or scrape it off before you pull the cell out of the case.  Or it will rip out the lights.  You’ll see if it’s necessary.

Figure 6


10. Once you free the plastic case from the cells, set it aside and move the cells to a safe place to be recycled later.

11. Now put the shell on its feet again and position the new cells exactly as the old cells were.  

12. Start reconnecting the wires.  Start with the 3 inner red wires.  Take a terminal screw and loop the wire connectors onto the screw and then insert the screw into the post hole and add the nut.  One down – three to go.  Now take another screw and do the same with the three black wires on the other “inner” post. 

Figure 7


13. Now take the long red wire and connect it to the (2) outside posts going across across the whole thing.  Good job.

14. Get the fuse and connect it to the (2) fuse wires and place the sticky rubber patch back over that terminal screw so that no metal touches.  If there is no rubber piece provided from the factory, cover that screw with a piece of black electrical tape.  Tuck the fuse down into the cavity.  Press the yellow button and see how much charge is in the new cells and to see that everything is connected properly.

15. Now the hardest part. (seriously) Tuck all the wires back down into the case so that you don’t pinch any of them when you put the other half of the shell back on.

16. Place the smooth half of the shell back on and press down listening for little clicks where the plastic fits together.  Squeeze the handle pieces together to make sure you get a good fit.

17. Carefully turn the battery over on its smooth side again and begin replacing all the screws around the edge.  Start with the one in the center of the handle.  Then the one on the bottom opposite that one.  Then two more on the sides.  Then the corners.  Then the rest of them.  The towel is handy for spinning the battery as you go.

18. Test the battery on your mower for a few seconds.

19. Connect to the charger and top it off before your first mow.